After my trip to Kilnsey, it was time to look ahead to
the world championships in Singapore at the end of August. The weather got bad
which gave me time to train indoors. I felt fit and strong; my trip to Céüse had
increased my fitness a lot.
We flew out to Singapore on the Saturday before the comp on
the Wednesday. The comp and our hotel was on a holiday island called Sentosa
and the wall was on the amazing sandy beach. Before the comp we just had one
session at a really cool little wall where most of the teams had been training.
For my first route, I was nervous. I fell off with a deep
left foot flag under my right leg, which limited my reach to the next hold. I
still came 26th on this route. Psyched - I can still make the semis, which is
top 25!
The next route looked like it suited me. I was climbing later
on in the day so got to stay in bed for a bit which helps recovery from jet lag.
I made a few trips down to the wall to get some beta for the route, but made
sure I stayed cool and hydrated in my hotel room.
I made my final trip down to the wall, got warmed up,
then the rain started. The wall was soaked in minutes. Climbing was delayed and
no one thought it would carry on that day. But the routes were dried with
towels and I was back at the wall warmed up ready to go.
The route suited me perfectly - good positive holds and
flicks moves. Start went well. I got to one of the harder looking moves, did
it. Heel up. Couldn't get it to stick. I panicked and flicked for the next old. Almost caught it but I was off.
Overall I finished in 38th. I was pretty
disappointed. I was hoping for the top 20 to improve on my 25th result last
year.
Consolation back home was a trip to Peak limestone with Jim
Pope. I decided to try Mecca (8b+) and managed all the moves but the crux, and
did some big links. Good effort to Pope who did his first 8a.
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