The last comp is always the winter British Youth Open. I’d
won this in Sunderland last year, and the summer one at Ratho.
I couldn't wait for this event at Awesome Walls in
Liverpool, as the 2009 Youth Open here was one of my first leading comps and I
have fond memories of this wall. In ’09 I
came sixth and in ’10 third. I wanted to continue doing well in this comp ;-).
After a long drive up on Friday we got to the hotel and
after a good sleep for once we headed down to the wall. I walked in to be as
inspired/nervous as I was three years ago at the steepness and size of the wall.
Routes looked amazing, I was psyched!
Route one took a smearing corner up the right hand side
of the comp wall. No problems. Topped. Climbing for fun, and what a difference
it makes!! It was about 7a+. Quite a few other people topped this.
The next route was much harder, orange up the middle of
the comp wall. I was climbing midway through the group. Most people fell off a
hard move off an undercut half way up. I slapped up, missing the intermediate
that caught people out. I had stuck it. Bump low hand in. I screamed (don’t do
that a lot!), made a move to a good hold and CHILLED! A few seconds later I was
at the top, quite a fight! This route was given 8a and it felt solid at the
grade. I qualified in first place. Sweet.
Since the start of the day there were rumours of how
hard, the purple on the comp wall was: 8a, 8a+, 8b or 9a. Whatever grade it was,
it was our final. I was psyched.
After a long wait in isolation I went out for
observation. I had spotted the rest and cruxes. Everything went according to
plan and I made a big move off an undercut. I caught the next good hold. By the
sound of the crowd I knew I had won. I didn't care! I wanted to finish the
route everyone had been talking about and worrying about, and I did! First
place in the Youth Open for the third time running, and climbing for fun.
Result!
The route was given 8a+/b. I was pleased to onsight it! Got a ‘well
done’ e-mail from Steve McC, who set it. Ian said 'What if you could climb like that in Euros, because you can!', which really made me think. Molly also managed to flash the route
after the comp and put a good effort in on the orange, sick!
Well done to all the climbers! There was some amazing
climbing and the new team was selected. Rebecca Kinghorn is one to watch!
Bouldering open was the next day and I injured myself.
Came 9th. Did something to my neck and haven’t climbed since, three
weeks plus off. Itching to get back. But over the last few months I’ve learnt
loads about my head, just how to be psyched, being relaxed, being confident in my ability
and trusting myself to be good enough to fight hard.
Bring on next year, if I
get selected ;-)!
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