While getting my first 8b in Gorges du Loup over
a year ago, I experienced a whole new part of climbing which I loved, the art
of redpointing. Although the route only took me two sessions, I definitely felt
I was starting to experience real redpointing. A few months later in Ceuse, I
climbed another 8b in two sessions as well as a few more 8s. I knew I could
climb harder. I really wanted to get on something harder - I wanted to redpoint
8c.
Once back from Ceuse, I
had a few days in Yorkshire. I had a quick play on Bat Route at Malham and
remember getting spanked. Most of it was wet, but even the dry moves felt
desperate. It was a big step up! Then, due to the competition season last year,
I didn't get out much after that, but it was still in my head; climbing
something so hard it gets 8c. It wasn't really the grade; I just wanted to
climb something that felt really, really hard.
So for this Easter, I booked flights out to France. I was psyched to get back on Hot Chilli X, a Gorges du Loup 8c I tried briefly last time I was there. I started climbing and training a lot more, I didn't want any excuses!
So for this Easter, I booked flights out to France. I was psyched to get back on Hot Chilli X, a Gorges du Loup 8c I tried briefly last time I was there. I started climbing and training a lot more, I didn't want any excuses!
Easter came, but the route was wet. The whole
crag was soaking wet. I was disappointed, but maybe relieved I didn't have to
find out if I was good enough to climb this route. I escaped from the pressure.
I ended up doing a few 8bs and some other 8s. I ended up consolidating, which isn't a bad thing, but it's not what I wanted to do. I got back from France and was a little demotivated. I had a few days out on rock but I didn't focus. Then I decided - right: I want to do something before the summer holidays started. I needed a goal. I wanted to climb 8c before I was 17 at the end of July. Again, it wasn’t just about the numbers, but about focusing on a goal and getting it done.
I ended up doing a few 8bs and some other 8s. I ended up consolidating, which isn't a bad thing, but it's not what I wanted to do. I got back from France and was a little demotivated. I had a few days out on rock but I didn't focus. Then I decided - right: I want to do something before the summer holidays started. I needed a goal. I wanted to climb 8c before I was 17 at the end of July. Again, it wasn’t just about the numbers, but about focusing on a goal and getting it done.
A few weeks ago I decided to try Bat Route,
knowing that Gorges du Loup was wet. At least I knew the route a bit, so I went
up to Malham three Sundays ago to start working it out. Bat Route takes an
amazing line up the middle of the catwalk, through the roof, and to the top on
good holds separated by good rests. It's a relatively 'Euro-style’ route,
having good holds and not a desperate filthy crux. The route starts up the
classic 7b Seventh Aardvark. Then there is a good rest before the crux, which
is an amazing typical Malham sequence with snatches on poor undercuts through
the roof, before getting to a huge resting jug and a no hands knee bar rest (if
your legs will fit, I’m too small). Then there are two relatively easy sections
separated by a rest; then you get to an undercut one bolt from easy ground. The
rest is good enough to recover a bit but if you stay too long you start to
think, and your mind messes you up before the final few moves on thin crimps and
poor feet.
So, my first session on the route I thought 'wow,
8c is properly hard'. I knew this and it's what I wanted and expected. I became
obsessed from that first go. Up each go, I couldn't wait for the next and I could
hardly rest a minute before having another go. That night I thought ‘right, I'm
going to do this and that on the route tomorrow’ and set myself goals. One of these was to go from the end of the 7b
to the top out. I almost managed it, but I still felt a long way off the whole
route.
But I was loving this business of redpointing a properly hard route. It's amazing how much that starting 7b can add, even with a good rest. I stayed psyched. 8c isn't meant to be easy. I was enjoying myself. I hadn't had so much fun in ages, falling over and over again on the same few crux moves. I loved it!
But I was loving this business of redpointing a properly hard route. It's amazing how much that starting 7b can add, even with a good rest. I stayed psyched. 8c isn't meant to be easy. I was enjoying myself. I hadn't had so much fun in ages, falling over and over again on the same few crux moves. I loved it!
The next day I was back for more. Third day
on, and skin and power were low. I decided to rest until the evening. It also
meant the route would be in shade, as the crag only really becomes cool enough
to climb, and in the shade, at 5pm. I went up the route, at the start feeling
good. But I didn't do the crux and struggled on the final crimpy section. I
decided to redpoint anyway. Fell at the crux. Right, that's it, I can’t keep
falling here, and there must be another way.
I remembered being told something about a heel hook and I worked it out; the crux was no longer the problem. Now I just needed to link the whole thing together, which I knew was the biggest challenge. It still felt hard but became real, a type of hard I wanted: not falling at the same move every go. I only got a few redpoint attempts in before I had to leave and go back to school.
I remembered being told something about a heel hook and I worked it out; the crux was no longer the problem. Now I just needed to link the whole thing together, which I knew was the biggest challenge. It still felt hard but became real, a type of hard I wanted: not falling at the same move every go. I only got a few redpoint attempts in before I had to leave and go back to school.
But I’d made big progress and I was psyched. I
got home and didn't stop thinking about the route and planning my next trip. Thinking
about it now, I wasn't even close on that first trip, but I knew I could get it
done if the improvements kept on coming. I left my draws in the route so I'd
have to get back up there and last Monday (June 30), I got the train up and arrived
at the crag just as it came in the shade. I just planned to
have a few goes up and get the moves in my head. Well I hadn't really forgotten
the sequence that had constantly been in my head for the last few days; if I
can climb it hundreds of times an hour in my head I must be able to do it?
Well, my first go up on the route and I
climbed it bolt to bolt without falling once. On my last trip I'd made sure I
had the top dialled because I wanted to make use of every go I’d had. I got
past the crux but that didn’t seem to be much of a problem anymore, as the crux,
the new way, felt good. This was probably my favourite go on Bat Route; it was
that moment I'd been searching for, the thing I love about redpoint: that
giggly moment when you realise that you’re going to do the route. I had a few
goes that evening, a couple falling in the middle section which I never thought
I'd drop.I’d made it past the crux and I was loving
it. I'd never enjoyed climbing so much, every go I was getting more and more
tired and at the end of the evening I got to the final few moves a couple of
times. Wow, I'm going to do this, I'm going to do Bat Route. I had no pressure.
I felt like I had all the time in the world. I was content, just enjoying the
process.
I didn't sleep much Monday night. I had that
'Christmas Eve feeling'. I couldn’t wait to be back on that top wall, elbows
back and slapping from hold to hold. I was going to wake up and climb Bat Route.
I tried to keep it as normal as possible: same warm up, same breakfast.
First go up went well, but I pulled a bolt
out. Sorry. I don't know why, but I thought that meant I wasn't going to do the
route. I felt really disappointed. Wait, who am I kidding: the run out is safe
and missing that clip might save me that bit of energy that I needed to climb
the last few moves. It’s on, it’s on.
Then I was on redpoint. I couldn't wait any
more - this is what I'd been waiting
for since Easter last year. I'd never been so relaxed. I climbed to the crux,
looked upwards. Listen, I'm on a jug now and there's another one four moves
away, come on! I climbed like this all the way to the top, climbing between the
rests until I was at the final good hold. It felt different to the other
attempts: I was just as tired, everything was the same, but when I looked up at
the final jug undercut, I realised I'm only that far off Bat Route, I'm that
far from 8c, come on!
I was smiling. I didn't stay on the rest as
long as I should. I could have recovered more. But I wanted it; I wanted it
now, to be up on those crimps. I left the rest and did it, got past those moves
I had fallen off before, hit the final jug undercut, let out a scream - all
that tension that had built up on those final moves was released. I climbed
slowly to the top, being careful with my feet. I didn't want to drop it here. I
took my time getting to the top. I wanted to stay on the route as long as I
could.
I clipped the chain and there was a disappointing feeling that it was over; disappointed that it wasn't as hard as you first thought, because you’d done it; disappointed I wasn't going to get another go; a split second of contentment before thinking about the next route. It wasn't clipping the belay I enjoyed; it was the whole thing, the whole process of working the moves out and feeling the progress. But I'd done it, Bat Route: my first 8c while I was 16 and when I should have been in biology lessons. It didn't, it doesn't, feel real; it doesn't feel like I've climbed 8c in Britain! I took my draws out and had a quick play on Rainshadow and caught the bus back to Skipton and then the train back home. It was only then when it sunk in and I let out a smile. Not a complete one. I wasn’t content. I want more!
I clipped the chain and there was a disappointing feeling that it was over; disappointed that it wasn't as hard as you first thought, because you’d done it; disappointed I wasn't going to get another go; a split second of contentment before thinking about the next route. It wasn't clipping the belay I enjoyed; it was the whole thing, the whole process of working the moves out and feeling the progress. But I'd done it, Bat Route: my first 8c while I was 16 and when I should have been in biology lessons. It didn't, it doesn't, feel real; it doesn't feel like I've climbed 8c in Britain! I took my draws out and had a quick play on Rainshadow and caught the bus back to Skipton and then the train back home. It was only then when it sunk in and I let out a smile. Not a complete one. I wasn’t content. I want more!
Overall the route took me five sessions and
about 14 goes spread over a week (plus the spanking last year). Thanks to the
guys who belayed and filmed me. (The film is sped up – it goes quickly through
the 7b start - and it’s cut because I spent so much time on rests and enjoying
the climb that it took over 12 minutes, and you don’t want to be watching all
that.) I can’t wait to get on something harder, but for now I want to focus on
the rest of the competitions in the summer and the world championships in
Canada in August. If I’m the youngest Brit to climb 8c, that’s cool, but what
was cooler was the journey to get there. That’s what I liked. That’s what I
want more of.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1tsQn-1lJs&feature=youtu.be
Not far now...
Going through the roof
Big move coming...
Thanks for reading and thanks to Lyon, Sportiva, Beal and Petzl for their support.
Big thanks too to Daniel Heath for the belaying and Andy Morris for filming me. Thanks guys.
Hi Buster - I found your blog via the UKC thread and just wanted to say congratulations on a really impressive tick! Very interesting to hear your thoughts on the redpointing process and all that that entails. I'm also amazed you were already climbing at 8b without doing anything similar! Well done again.
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