After Imst (see below) I had one rest day where I went to
watch some of the Olympics in the stadium. It was really cool to see people do
other sports for once.
I then headed up to Kilnsey with Tom Bonnert. We got there with
a little time to climb before it got dark, and within an hour of arriving at the
crag I had finished off The Bulge (8a) and had a play on some harder things, I
was psyched!
Day two, and a go on Bat Route (8c). I did the majority of
the moves that were dry that day. I really understand now that to attempt this
grade in Britain you need the beta and I didn’t have any. I can also see why Adam Ondra
onsighting it was just so cool. But it was very hot and wet so we went back to
Kilnsey.
I got on Grooved Arête, a 15-metre 8a+ (some say 8b) on the
right hand side of the crag. It is said to be a harder version of Raindogs,
being mostly power endurance. It sounded good! After working the moves I had a
few redpoints that night but was tired from working Bat Route. The next day I
got frustratingly close but decided to leave it. Tried the following day but it
was my fourth day on and I could feel it.
Tom had to go home but I met Ian Dunn and after a rest day
(watching climbing at the crag) I was back and did the route first redpoint of
the day; easy after a rest day ;-).
Dead Calm is a newish 8a at Kilnsey on the right of North Buttress.
A lot of people were trying this so I tried to get as much beta as possible
over three days of watching people on it and try for my first 8a flash. After
climbing the lower section (WYSIWYG 7b) I shook out at the good rest then got
to the second last clip, clipped it and composed myself for the top crux. It
was weird to be up here and looking at the holds after three days of getting
beta - I knew exactly what to do and then I was at the top, my first 8a
flash! Thanks for all the beta from
everyone on the route and to Ian and Tom who made it a good trip!
Video (should have been wearing brighter colours!) of Grooved Arête https://vimeo.com/47417803
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