After Ratho I managed to fit in one session at Westway before
the next European round at Imst. It felt good to be back at Westway after so
long away and I was psyched to do a Liam 8a+ there.
Early flight next day, a long wait at Munich for the rest of the team
and crazy storms on the drive through the amazing Tirol to Imst. Next day after that, the rest
day, was spent on the Alpine Coaster, a 3,500m
long roller coaster on which you control the speed. I learnt how to kill the
brakes with my feet. Cool.
Later that evening we found
out our start positions. I was 8th first round and 30th
second, which meant, I reckoned, a seven-hour gap between climbs. I had this before
in Linz, where it was also very hot. I’d learnt how to prepare - stay cool, drink
lots and relax. I was so psyched that I
woke up feeling very tired due to not getting enough good sleep. Comps in Austria
are always really well run and Imst being no exception the comp started exactly
on time. All the routes were on the big outdoor wall leaving the huge indoor
lead wall for warming up, which is one of my favourite things about Imst.
After watching the seven
climbers before me there were some interesting results. I was up. After
sketching my way up the bottom slab I climbed pretty fast up to what seemed to
be the crux section. Really cool moves on small but positive holds! My style! I
got past the big move and then to a complicated foot sequence where your body
is horizontal. I got my feet sorted and just before I pulled up to the next
resting jug my feet ripped off the wall! I was a little annoyed but psyched as
I felt I had climbed well on the route until that point. I came 23rd
on that route. Need to do better in the second round.
My second route was shared
with the Junior category (apart from one changed hold) and I went after Jonny
W, so I got lots of beta from the two Jonnys and Luke. The route began up one of
the long slabby sections of the Imst wall with a jump start. I was pretty
nervous for this but allowed myself to be as I knew once I caught the jump I
would be relaxed for the rest of the route. The route had some big moves on
poor holds until it turned into the roof where there was some funky 3D climbing.
I got up to the roof and a few moves in I decided to try a different sequence
and missed the hold that had been added for my category. I
slapped to a volume, almost held it, and was then flying through the air.
I was happy about how I
climbed on this route. I was 15th, so an improvement on the first
round. (I noticed that I had been scored lower than I thought so after a word
with the judge I was moved up to the correct score.) I had finished 19th
overall.
Imst is a very popular comp and often has some interesting results, so I was not to annoyed and got psyched now about the Worlds at the end of August!
Overall the team did well with Luke, William and Alex making the finals and others very close!
Time to get back out on rock.
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